Finally Finshed! Shirt with Wrap-Over Angled Yoke

Friday, March 23, 2012

Designing and drafting the pattern for this shirt was so much fun, 
and stitching it was even better!

In the post below this one, you will see the pattern and the "muslin" (test garment) for this style.  I only needed to make some very small changes to arrive at the finished shirt, involving the shape of the sleeve cap. It just needed to be a little flatter and a bit longer.

 Balancing details is important when designing menswear that differs from the norm. I did not want this shirt to veer into "western" territory, and of course I did not want it to look like a "blouse".  So I added a traditionally shaped pocket, and carried the piped accents of the yoke to the sleeve and pocket. The addition of a white band collar cut straight at center front (rather than rounded) and traditional white shirt buttons "marching" down the the front placket finish the look.

SEWING NOTES--  Shirting fabric from www.GorgeousFabrics.com, Collar interfaced with Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing from www.FashionSewingSupply.com  Buttons are from the Light Assortment of "Buttons-by-the-Scoop" from www.FashionSewingSupply.com.

Monster Game...

Thursday, March 22, 2012
Thursday March 22nd at Dig IT is our quarterly Parlour night which is part of the Plaza District's new Plaza Art Quarterly that will happen 4 times a year. For this one we will be showing new sideshow and speciman works by Chastine Edwards and with keeping with the "parlour" theme we will be playing a open to the public interactive version of the classic dada game "exquisite corpse". For our version we will be making monsters and freaks hence " the Monster Game" . you know you are curious so come on out from 7-10pm thursday night!
Also in the area there will be great shows at DNA Gallery ( Custom Toy SHow ) and at Bomb Shelter ( Hasami Night )

What I'm working on...Shirt with Angled Yoke

Sunday, March 18, 2012

I started this design last week, but have been very busy since my blog-interview with the lovely Gertie!

When finished (sometime next week, I hope)...this will be a Man's Shirt with a one-piece *angled* wrap-over Yoke. Excuse the poor sketch (I cannot draw) and blurry pic of the "working pattern".  

This first muslin was pretty good and I've made some minor changes to the final pattern.  Right side of shirt is shown...


When drafting a shirt for a man where the yoke wraps over the shoulder and ends at a deep angle in the front, shape needs to be "built-into" the yoke so that the shirt  lays smoothly along the shoulder.  While you will sometimes see a design like this for women or children...there are very few angled (one piece) yoke styles found among commercial patterns for men.  In menswear this look is usually accomplished by a separate piece that is stitched to the shirt fronts (like western shirts, for example).


ANA IACCARINO this Friday March 9th 7p-10p

Friday, March 9, 2012

Come out for this months Live on the Plaza and see some of the newest pieces we have in from artist Ana Iaccarino. Ana is a recent Iowa transplant here in OKC and we absolutely love her work and her. Many of her pieces are minimal in the number of colors used yet each one somehow comes out feeling deeply saturated in color. I love her whimsical yet dark characters that she brings out in each piece as you can just imagine this crazy imaginative world they all come from yet when you look at them a little more you find out they kinda look like someone you might know. Anyway come on by and check them out yourself and hopefully get a chance to meet Ana.

THANKS!

Underground Monster Carnival was AWESOME! Thanks so much to everyone who came out to support it and we can't wait til next year! whoohoo
Count Gregore w/ the lovely Hexi Lee Voodoo

The Bearded Ladies of Underground Monster Carnival

2 headed pig handcrafted by Chastine Edwards of GroundUp Art

How to Iron a Shirt....the professional way.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

 Recently in comments, Cissie complimented me about how well pressed my shirts are, and asked me for some tips.  So I have chosen to show you this video from T.M.Lewin, makers of fine men's shirts and other haberdashery, in business since 1898 located on Jermyn Street, London.  (Worthy of mentioning--they have been making fine shirts for well over 100 years, and now even they use fusible interfacing in many styles of their  shirts!)

I was taught to iron my finished shirts in this manner during my shirtmaking/tailoring training, and have been doing it this way for 30 years.  ...and yes, this is "ironing".

Please note the following--
  • Iron one "cuff and sleeve" and the associated half of the  yoke...then iron the other "cuff and sleeve", and the remaining half of the yoke (only one sleeve side is demonstrated in this video).
  • Note how only the CB of the collar is ironed when folded.
  • Remember to fasten the top button before ironing the body of the shirt...it makes a huge difference.
  • Perhaps the most useful tip in this process that will make the most difference in how your pressed shirt looks is this-- Use the heel (back wide end of the sole plate) of your iron to do the "work" when ironing places like the cuff and collar. This is fully demonstrated in the video, and really does make a difference!