TUTORIAL-- Professional Wrapped-Edge Facing

Wednesday, April 18, 2012
I always strive to have my garments look as good on the inside as they do on the "public" side.  One of the techniques I use to do this, I showed to you in a tutorial long ago before getting a new camera...so when I sewed the trial garment of Vogue 8800 (shown below), I took the opportunity to stitch and show you this Wrapped-Edge Facing technique again...this time in more detail and with better photography.

When sewing a basic convertible collar shirt like the one above, we usually finish the loose edge of the facings (the long curved edges not sewn to the shirt fronts) by serging, zig-zagging, or by turning the raw-edge 1/4-inch to the wrong side and stitching.  That's perfectly fine, but there is another way to finish those long front facings so that they look like this and give the inside of your garment some pizazz!

Here is how it's done--

The two facing pieces needed for the shirt fronts are cut from the fabric following the pattern exactly.

In order to wrap the edges of the facings, it is necessary to use a soft and very flexible interfacing like ProSheer Elegance from www.FashionSewingSupply.com .
 As shown below...Place and pin the facing pattern piece on the straight grain of folded interfacing, and then draw a line 1/2" away from the long curved edge. Cut the interfacing following the pattern piece along the straight long side, neck curve and top...but use the new drawn line when the long curved edge is cut.  Yes, the two pieces of interfacing are now wider than the two facing pieces that were cut from the fabric.

The interfacing is then placed on top of the facing RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER,  so that the long curved edges match. The fusible side of the interfacing is facing "up".  Then the 2 layers (1 interfacing + 1 fabric facing ) are stitched together along the LONG CURVED EDGE with a scant 1/4-inch seam.

Next as shown below--  On your pressing surface...the interfacing is folded "open" from the facing it is stitched to, and VERY CAREFULLY....it is Pressed ONLY along the the seam allowances with the tip of the iron. BOTH seam allowances and ONLY the seam allowances are pressed towards the interfacing. This is done to just quickly and temporarily "tack down" the interfacing to the SEAM ALLOWANCES.   Do NOT let your iron drift PAST the seam allowance!  Pressing the FABRIC is fine...But at this point..DO NOT PRESS THE INTERFACING PAST THE SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Next, the facing unit is turned over, and the interfacing is wrapped around (over) the pressed-together seam allowances to the wrong side of the facing piece. At this point the interfacing is ready to be fully fused to the wrong side of the facing piece...so finish fusing the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric facing pieces (NOTE--the interfacing will NOT meet the straight and other edges of the facing...because those are the edges that will be sewn to the shirt-fronts..and extra bulk is not needed or wanted in those seams).

This is what the finished "Wrapped-edge Facing"
Piece looks like (after fully fusing the interfacing) from the RIGHT side.   ------------------->

<----And this is what it looks like from the WRONG side.

And when the Wrapped-Edge Facing is sewn into place to the Center Front seam allowance of the Shirt Front pieces....the loose edge of the facing inside of the shirt looks fantastic!      

INTERFACING USED-- Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing from www.FashionSewingSupply.com