Don't Miss This Video!

Sunday, December 25, 2011
Like the Costume Fairy...only Taller !

Thanks to my friend Alethia at for pointing out this sewing clip to me... We've all been there, haven't we?

Happy Ho-Ho's from Dig It!

Saturday, December 24, 2011


Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Following on from my post about soles a couple of weeks ago, I thought a brief mention of resoling might be in order.

One of the tricky things about owning leather-soled shoes is the need to get them regularly resoled at some expense. For those of us with more money than sense, shoes can usually be sent back to the manufacturer to be completely rennovated but, in reality, just getting them resoled as they wear through is more than adequate. The difficulty is finding somewhere that will do a decent job of replacing the soles without charging more than the shoes cost in the first place.

The best bet is to have a look at other shoes they've done - there ought to be some kicking around - and check that you're happy that the soles are neatly stitched, made of decent quality leather, and that the edges have been trimmed and polished.

I was delighted to discover a place in Putney, not far from where I live, staffed by the sort of elderly gentleman who inspires instant confidence in his ability to do a cracking job. I was even more pleased when they quoted me just £35 to half-resole and to replace the heels.

Half refers to the way the replacement sole only covers the area that is actually in contact with the floor (and therefore wears down). It looks slightly less neat to anyone who might happen to be looking at the soles of your shoes, but is much cheaper as it doesn't require the removal of the entire heel.

Anyway, Cobblers of Putney did a terrific job and I shall certainly be going back.

FREE PATTERN- Coat for the Homeless

Thursday, December 15, 2011
 There are many weeks of cold weather ahead...please spread the word about this free pattern.  I am going to make one for the man who "lives" under the porch of the American Legion in my town.
PATTERN and INSTRUCTIONS available at Carol Kimball's Site, HERE
PATTERN and INSTRUCTIONS available at Carol Kimball's Site, HERE

This information came to me by way of Kathleen at Fashion-Incubator
In Kathleen's words:
Carol Kimball and Carol Phillips (they refer to themselves as the Carols so I will too) designed a simple coat pattern that can be used to make coats for the homeless. The hooded coat folds up at the bottom when sleeping to keep the feet warm and it has sizable inside pockets that can be used to place insulation or belongings. can get the instructions on how to make the pattern and how to sew it on THEIR SITE .  You are encouraged to freely distribute their pattern and instructions provided it is not sold and credit attributed. I'm sure they'd also like to know if you make any so do write them.

new goodies from CrYpT-o-LiCiOuS creations...

Wednesday, December 14, 2011
wc fields as legba

mambo gal

cherub planter

It's a Mad Monster Holiday at Dig It!

Groundup Art

Groundup Art

Groundup Art

restuffer by dejAvoodu

Amy Tichenor- Pitchford

Amy Tichenor- Pitchford

Holiday hours

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Sunday 1p-5p
Monday 12noon-7p
Tuesday 11a-7p
Wednesday 11a-7p
Thursday 11a-8p
Friday 11a-8p
Saturday 11a-8p
We will close early on x-mas eve at 5pm and be closed xmas day.
we will be closed Dec 31st-Jan 2nd for new years holiday

Spot-Fusing...A modern Tailor's Method

Monday, December 5, 2011
While I am taking some time off from Blogging to take care of some personal business, Here is a repeat of one of my most popular Tutorials.....

Block Fusing is a method that many modern tailors and home-sewists use to apply interfacing to fashion fabric yardage before the pattern pieces are cut out. Have you ever struggled keeping the interfacing layer from slipping off-grain as you attempt to fuse it to your fabric yardage?  Next time, try this fast, easy, and accurate method that I learned from a Master Tailor during my apprenticeship, called "SPOT-FUSING"...And it can be done right on your cutting table!
^ STEP 1 ^
First, we need to prepare the surface of the table. The photo above shows my cutting table covered with 2 layers of HEAVY weight muslin (from Gorgeous Fabrics), and one layer of very thick wool (a heavy wool blanket will work as well..I just happen to have felted wool yardage that I use for this technique).  It is VERY important that these layers be smooth and free of wrinkles, so thoroughly smooth them out before proceeding.

 ^ STEP 2 ^
Next, lay out your fashion fabric on top of your "padded" table, WRONG side UP...making SURE it is smooth. What you see in the photo above is 3 yards of 60" wide silk/wool suiting fabric. The cut edge of the fabric is to the left, with the rest of the yardage hanging off the right side of my table. There is no need for weights to hold the fabric in place...the under-layer of wool holds it nicely.  But if you need to, weights can be placed along the top edge (in the above photo, the (top) cut edge is to the left).

^ STEP 3 ^
Now lay your Interfacing FUSIBLE Side DOWN on the (wrong side) of the fashion fabric, making sure it is smooth and on grain. I am using Charcoal-Black Pro-Weft Supreme Light Interfacing, one of my custom-milled professional grade interfacings available exclusively at Fashion Sewing Supply.

^ STEP 4 ^
This is where the Spot-Fusing happens :)   USING a thin PRESS CLOTH, and your steam iron set to a low-wool setting, start moving your iron over the interfacing with an UP and DOWN motion. DO NOT slide the iron, just move it all over the interfacing, pressing with steam for a few seconds, picking up the iron, moving it over an inch or so, and steam pressing again for a few seconds. I start pressing in the middle along one edge, and spot-press to one side until I reach the edge of the yardage, then begin again in the middle and work towards the other edge. I keep repeating this, working my way down and along the yardage, until all the yardage on my table has had the interfacing "tacked" (SPOT FUSED) down. Then I carefully pull the next section of fabric + unfused interfacing so that it covers the table, making sure that all is smooth and on-grain...then repeat the Spot-Fusing process again until all the fashion fabric yardage has been Spot-Fused.  I can Spot Fuse a few yards of 60" fabric in about 5-10 minutes.
Please note that the object here is to just tack the interfacing to the fabric...NOT to fuse it completely..that comes later.

^ STEP 5 ^
After removing the Muslin+Wool "padding" from your cutting surface, carefully lay your Spot-Fused fabric yardage right side up, lay out your pattern pieces and cut them out.

  ^ STEP 6 ^
 NOW is the time when we take our garment pieces to our "official" pressing surface (your Ironing Board or ClamShell Press), and "finish the fuse"...following the complete fusing instructions that come with your interfacing.

And this is why I Spot-Fuse before I Block-Fuse: Why bother spending time and effort completely Block-Fusing ALL the yardage, including the scraps that will be thrown in the trash after the pattern pieces are cut ?  By Spot-Fusing, I can ASSURE a perfect fuse and save time by fully pressing/fusing just the actual garment pieces...AFTER the interfacing has first been "tacked down" by the Spot-Fusing :)