Sewing Tutorial- "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

Friday, March 25, 2011

Recently I made this custom shirt for one of my clients from light-weight distressed denim. It is one of my original designs and features  pin-tucks on the pocket and right front...and special "Cuffed-Hems" on the sleeves (see Tutorial below).  The Coconut Shell Buttons and Pro-Weft Interfacing used on this shirt are from www.FashionSewingSupply.

How to make a "Cuffed-Hem" Sleeve

For an approximately 1" finished Cuffed-Hem, you only need to make one simple change to your sleeve pattern. Just change the hem allowance to 2.25 inches (2-1/4"), as shown in this sample pattern.

After cutting out your sleeve, turn the bottom (hem edge) of the sleeve to the Wrong side by 1-1/8", then turn it again by the same amount (1-1/8"), then Press.  All we are doing here is "turning it twice to the wrong side" by 1-1/8" each time...just as if we were making a double hem.  This photo shows the bottom edge turned twice. The sleeve is shown photographed from the side so that you can see the folds--

When the folds have been pressed completely flat, take your sleeve to the sewing machine. 
Now Top-Stitch along the Bottom Edge  about 1/4", through all the layers. After stitching, this is what the sleeve will look like from the Wrong Side--

To finish the Cuffed-Hem, turn down the top fold (the one that was NOT stitched) and press. 
Here is what the finished Cuffed-Hem Sleeve looks like from the right side and the wrong side. The wrong side will have the raw edge enclosed, and the right side will have the Cuffed "Lip" that was formed when you stitched it!