A Summer Shirt....Featuring a "seamless" Lined Pocket

Thursday, August 27, 2009
Where did the summer go?
This is likely the last short sleeve shirt I'll make for a client this season!

Mens Stripe Shirt Front

Made from fine Swiss Cotton Shirting fabric,
This shirt features a lined bias pocket and a bias back yoke.

As you can see in the photo below, the client also requested a CB "Locker Loop" that I made a bit more interesting by tying a knot in the center.
By the way, these CB loops are making a comeback in fine RTW...

Mens Stripe Shirt Back

I found that I needed to line the pocket of this shirt. The fabric is very lightweight, and the vertical stripes of the shirt-front clearly showed though the bias stripes of the first unlined pocket I made.
Since a seamed lining on a pocket crafted from fine cotton will show ugly ridges when pressed, I prefer to line a shirt pocket without seams.

Here's How:

  • First, prepare the pocket by pressing all edges into their finished position, but do not stitch the pocket hem...yet.
  • Next, just tuck the pocket lining into (under) all the pressed folds of the pocket. The photo below shows all but one side of the lining inserted into the pocket.

  • After all the edges of the pocket lining are tucked into the folds of the pocket, and the lining is flat and smooth, stitch the pocket hem as shown below.

  • Now you are ready to stitch the pocket onto the shirt...where your top-stitching or edge-stitching will "auto-magically" secure the remaining edges of the lining.