FOLD and FLIP Facings....a Sewing Tutorial

Friday, April 10, 2009

Tops and blouses with draped cowls are among the most flattering neckline silhouettes. However, with many of these styles the shoulder seams tend to slip to the back. Not only that, but the inside can look very messy where the cowl drape facing meets the shoulder seams.

Here is a way to solve both of these problems at the same time ..and works equally well for boat neck tops with cut-on facings too!

In this example, the garment shown is the "Waterfall Blouse" from Ottobre Woman magazine, Issue 02/09 #5.


Patterns for draped cowls may have gathered front shoulder seams. If so, gathering the Front shoulder seams is the first step, as shown below--

Step 1

Also, patterns for this style may have a separate Back Facing. If so, attach it.

Step 2

Next, lay the back onto the front, Right Sides Together, matching the front and back shoulder seams, AND also match the edges of the facings, as shown---

Step 3

Now, with the back side up, stitch the shoulder seams together, pivot and continue to stitch the edges of the facings together in one pass, as shown below--

Step 4

This what the stitched shoulder seams/facings will look like from the FRONT

Next, fold the facings down towards the BACK meeting the shoulder seam and matching all edges. Stitch the shoulder seam again, though all layers (when you click on the photo to enlarge it, you will see the stitching line drawn in blue).
Repeat on the other side.

Step 5

Now turn (flip) the facings into position. Look! All those seams (shoulders, front facing, and back facing) are now neatly enclosed, as shown below. Also notice that the seams at the shoulder are now folded toward the Front. This is unusual, as we usually press shoulder seams to the back. But with this style, having the shoulder seams folded to the FRONT helps the cowl fall into beautiful folds, and the tendency of these styles to "slide backwards" is solved!

Step 6