How to Sew a One Piece "Collar Plus Stand"

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

This shirt has a collar pattern that combines both the collar and stand as one pattern piece.

While I would normally redraft the pattern to separate the stand from the collar, this time I decided to sew it "as is"....since it seems to be making a come-back in many shirt and blouse patterns.


While this "combined" collar rarely rolls nicely and tends not to hold its shape well...there are some ways to make it work.


Here's how:

First, fuse Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing, cut on the BIAS to the UNDER Collar. Notice that the seam allowances have been trimmed from the interfacing. Cutting the interfacing on the bias will "encourage" the collar to roll smoothly.


Next, Fuse a strip of Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing, cut on the STRAIGHT grain, to the "false" collar stand area of the UNDER Collar, as shown below. Fuse it right on top of the first Interfacing.



Now, on the UPPER collar piece...fuse a strip of ProWoven Shirt Crisp Fusible, cut on the STRAIGHT grain to the "false" collar stand portion of the piece, shown below. ONLY the "stand" is interfaced on the UPPER collar.



When the collar is stitched, the extra strips of  ProWoven Shirt Crisp Fusible Interfacing that were fused to the "false" stands, add extra body to the area, and act like a "hinge".



This encourages the collar to roll into position as naturally as possible with this kind of "all-in-one" collar plus stand draft.