Classic Sleeve Placket

Monday, May 26, 2008
Today I offer you a page from a vintage sewing book, "Dressmaking Made Easy", 1941, McCall Corporation....because it has been difficult for me to sew anything more complicated than children's garments recently because of particular medications I need to take.

This is the way I was trained to sew a sleeve placket (also known as a "gauntlet") by my mentor, an "old world" Tailor with exacting standards of excellence. I still use this method almost every time...a placket with 2 separate pieces, the overlap and underlap. By using 2 pieces, I find I have more control to fold and press most accurately. Additionally a 2-piece placket offers more design opportunities, such as using different fabrics for the over and underlap....even changing the top (peak) of the overlap...perhaps making it square, curved (rounded), and more.

By offering this method, I am not implying it is the only way to sew a sleeve placket. I know at least 4 other ways to accomplish this task...but this is the method that produces the best results
for me with most fabrics.

The measurements I choose to use most often: Underlap-- about 1.75 inches wide x 6.25 inches. Overlap-- about 2.50 inches wide x 8" to the top of the "peak". Measurements include 1/4 inch seam allowances and 1/4 inch "edge-folds". Make a sample to see if you like these measurements...if not...feel free to change the height and width.

IMPORTANT-- When you enlarge this diagram to see detail (by clicking on it), please take notice on the first step, that ALL edge-folds are pressed BEFORE the laps are stitched to the sleeve slit.