Perfect Pockets Every Time!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

In my search to streamline construction while maintaining the utmost quality of the shirts I design, I developed an easy way to ensure perfectly symmetrical pockets.

First, change your pocket pattern by reducing the side and bottom seam allowances to no more than 3/8".

To help with accuracy while cutting, place your fabric on a stable padded surface, such as your ironing board. Stab-pin the pattern through the fabric and into the padded surface, as shown below. By pinning in this manner the fabric will not shift as the pocket is cut.

With Wrong side UP, press the seam allowances of ONE side and ONE angle edge, as shown below. You now have half of the pocket seam allowances pressed to the wrong side. Normally we would continue to press all the seam allowances to the wrong side, but by doing that we often end up with a pocket with odd angles and unequal side edges.

Fold the pocket in half RIGHT sides together at the point, matching the top edges as shown below.

Next, press the remaining seam allowances TO MATCH THE PREVIOUSLY PRESSED (folded) EDGES. Don't worry if the seam allowances vary in width. The goal is to have a finished pocket with its edges even...NOT the seam allowances!

Now we need to address the pocket's top (hem) edge. Before folding and pressing it into position, slide the top edges of the seam allowances IN a scant 1/8" as shown below. By doing this, bulk is reduced when stitching the pocket to the garment.

Finish the top edge of the pocket hem as desired. Fold down to the wrong side and press.

Place the pocket right side up and press. The corners and point will miter "auto-magically".
The finished pocket will have sharp point, perfect angles, and all edges will be even!